Places visited by Darwin

Darwin spent five weeks in the Galápagos Islands (16 September to 20 October 1835). This map shows Darwin's route through the archipelago on H.M.S. Beagle . He visited the four islands shaded in green (map from Darwin and His Bears, p. 10).
Darwin spent five weeks in the Galápagos Islands (16 September to 20 October 1835). This map shows Darwin's route through the archipelago on H.M.S. Beagle . He visited the four islands shaded in green (map from Darwin and His Bears, p. 10).
An area of recent lava flows on San Cristóbal (Chatham Island). Darwin describes visiting this heavily "craterized district" on 21-22 September 1835. He camped on the shore somewhere to the right of the large tuff-stone crater (Cerro Brujo) visible at the top of the photograph. The person visible in the lower right-hand area of this image is Michael Shermer, who accompanied me during this 2004 fieldtrip to the Galápagos and who has also contributed the Foreword to Darwin and His Bears.
An area of recent lava flows on San Cristóbal (Chatham Island). Darwin describes visiting this heavily "craterized district" on 21-22 September 1835. He camped on the shore somewhere to the right of the large tuff-stone crater (Cerro Brujo) visible at the top of the photograph. The person visible in the lower right-hand area of this image is Michael Shermer, who accompanied me during this 2004 fieldtrip to the Galápagos and who has also contributed the Foreword to Darwin and His Bears.
Darwin's "craterized district" on San Cristobal, seen from the air. The shadow of the small plane, from which I took this photograph as I leaned out an open cargo door secured by a rope, can be seen below. At the top left-hand side of the image is Cerro Brujo, a 1,200-foot tuff crater that Darwin examined on 21-22 September 1835. He and his assistant Syms Covington camped on the shore somewhere to the right of Cerro Brujo. In his Journal of Reseraches Darwin provided the following vivid description of this part of the island: "One night I slept on shore, on a part of the islands where some black cones--the former chimneys of the subterranean heated fluids--were extraordinarily numerous. . . . Nothing can be imagined more rough and horrid than the surface of the more modern streams. These have aptly been compared to the sea petrified in its most boisterous moments" (Journal of Researches, 1839, p. 455).
Darwin's "craterized district" on San Cristobal, seen from the air. The shadow of the small plane, from which I took this photograph as I leaned out an open cargo door secured by a rope, can be seen below. At the top left-hand side of the image is Cerro Brujo, a 1,200-foot tuff crater that Darwin examined on 21-22 September 1835. He and his assistant Syms Covington camped on the shore somewhere to the right of Cerro Brujo. In his Journal of Reseraches Darwin provided the following vivid description of this part of the island: "One night I slept on shore, on a part of the islands where some black cones--the former chimneys of the subterranean heated fluids--were extraordinarily numerous. . . . Nothing can be imagined more rough and horrid than the surface of the more modern streams. These have aptly been compared to the sea petrified in its most boisterous moments" (Journal of Researches, 1839, p. 455).
I am standing here on the lip of a giant pit crater in Darwin's "craterized district" on San Cristóbal. "The entire surface of this part of the island," Darwin wrote, "seems to have been permeated, like a sieve, by the subterranean vapours: here and there the lava, whilst soft, has been blown into great bubbles; and in other parts, the tops of caverns similarly formed have fallen in, leaving circular pits with steep sides" (Journal of Researches, 1845, p. 374).
I am standing here on the lip of a giant pit crater in Darwin's "craterized district" on San Cristóbal. "The entire surface of this part of the island," Darwin wrote, "seems to have been permeated, like a sieve, by the subterranean vapours: here and there the lava, whilst soft, has been blown into great bubbles; and in other parts, the tops of caverns similarly formed have fallen in, leaving circular pits with steep sides" (Journal of Researches, 1845, p. 374).
During his visit to this part of San Cristóbal, Darwin made a drawing of Cerro Brujo, the tuff-stone crater in the distance. Using this drawing as our guide, my research team and I were able to find the approximate location where Darwin stood 169 years before.
During his visit to this part of San Cristóbal, Darwin made a drawing of Cerro Brujo, the tuff-stone crater in the distance. Using this drawing as our guide, my research team and I were able to find the approximate location where Darwin stood 169 years before.
Frigatebird Hill (San Cristóbal), seen from the air. This is the site where Darwin and other members of the Beagle crew first set foot in the Galápagos. Of this first landing on the morning of 17 September 1835, Captain FitzRoy wrote: "We landed upon black, dismal-looking heaps of broken lava, forming a shore fit for Pandemonium. Innumerable crabs and hideous iguanas started in every direction as we scrambled from rock to rock. . . . Ascending a little hill, we were surprised to find much brush or underwood, and trees of considerable size, as large in the trunk as one man could clasp. These were prickly pears, and a kind of gum-tree: how their roots are able to penetrate, or derive nourishment from the hard lava, it is hard to say; for earth there is scarcely any. . . . This first excursion had no tendency to raise our ideas of the Galāpagos Islands (Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle, 1839, pp. 486-487). In the upper right-hand portion of this photograph is Wreck Bay and the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, which is the archipelago's capital and administrative center.
Frigatebird Hill (San Cristóbal), seen from the air. This is the site where Darwin and other members of the Beagle crew first set foot in the Galápagos. Of this first landing on the morning of 17 September 1835, Captain FitzRoy wrote: "We landed upon black, dismal-looking heaps of broken lava, forming a shore fit for Pandemonium. Innumerable crabs and hideous iguanas started in every direction as we scrambled from rock to rock. . . . Ascending a little hill, we were surprised to find much brush or underwood, and trees of considerable size, as large in the trunk as one man could clasp. These were prickly pears, and a kind of gum-tree: how their roots are able to penetrate, or derive nourishment from the hard lava, it is hard to say; for earth there is scarcely any. . . . This first excursion had no tendency to raise our ideas of the Galāpagos Islands (Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle, 1839, pp. 486-487). In the upper right-hand portion of this photograph is Wreck Bay and the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, which is the archipelago's capital and administrative center.
A view of Frigatebird Hill, where Darwin and some other members of the Beagle crew first landed in the Galápagos, viewed from the western side of the bay.
A view of Frigatebird Hill, where Darwin and some other members of the Beagle crew first landed in the Galápagos, viewed from the western side of the bay.
From the summit of Frigatebird Hill, Darwin, Captain FitzRoy, and other Beagle crewmembers would have had this view of the cove below. Roosting in the tree below (to the left) are four frigatebirds.
From the summit of Frigatebird Hill, Darwin, Captain FitzRoy, and other Beagle crewmembers would have had this view of the cove below. Roosting in the tree below (to the left) are four frigatebirds.
While the rest of the Beagle crew searched for tortoises, Darwin and John Stokes (assistant surveyor on the Beagle), walked inland to this crater (Pan de Azucar) on the northeastern side of San Cristóbal, about a mile from the seacoast, where the Beagle was anchored. In his Beagle "Diary" entry for 18 September 1835, Darwin wrote about this excursion: "We ascended the broken remains of a low but broard [sic] crater. The Volcano had been sub-marine--the strata which dipped away on all sides were composed of hard Sandstones composed of Volcanic dust. . . . The hunting party brought back 15 Tortoises: most of them very heavy & large" (p. 353). Although now extinct on the western side of the island, tortoises can still be found in this northeastern part of the island today. Darwin's misspelling of "broad" as "broard" is one of a series of words he misspelled during the Beagle voyage, including "neighborhead" and "occassionally." These misspellings, which were corrected by Darwin toward the end of the voyage, sometimes provide invaluable information for dating important and otherwise undated Beagle manuscripts, including Darwin's first explicit statement about the possibility of evolution (Sulloway, 1983).
While the rest of the Beagle crew searched for tortoises, Darwin and John Stokes (assistant surveyor on the Beagle), walked inland to this crater (Pan de Azucar) on the northeastern side of San Cristóbal, about a mile from the seacoast, where the Beagle was anchored. In his Beagle "Diary" entry for 18 September 1835, Darwin wrote about this excursion: "We ascended the broken remains of a low but broard [sic] crater. The Volcano had been sub-marine--the strata which dipped away on all sides were composed of hard Sandstones composed of Volcanic dust. . . . The hunting party brought back 15 Tortoises: most of them very heavy & large" (p. 353). Although now extinct on the western side of the island, tortoises can still be found in this northeastern part of the island today.

Darwin's misspelling of "broad" as "broard" is one of a series of words he misspelled during the Beagle voyage, including "neighborhead" and "occassionally." These misspellings, which were corrected by Darwin toward the end of the voyage, sometimes provide invaluable information for dating important and otherwise undated Beagle manuscripts, including Darwin's first explicit statement about the possibility of evolution (Sulloway, 1983).

Freshwater Bay, on the southern side of San Cristóbal. A sketch was made by a member of the Beagle crew in 1835 and was later published by Captain FitzRoy in his account of the Beagle voyage. In this photo I am trying, as part of an ongoing study of ecological changes in the Galápagos, to photograph Freshwater Bay from the same location where the Beagle's artist stood in 1835.
Freshwater Bay, on the southern side of San Cristóbal. A sketch was made by a member of the Beagle crew in 1835 and was later published by Captain FitzRoy in his account of the Beagle voyage. In this photo I am trying, as part of an ongoing study of ecological changes in the Galápagos, to photograph Freshwater Bay from the same location where the Beagle's artist stood in 1835.
After visiting the island of San Cristóbal (Chatham), the Beagle sailed to Floreana (Charles Island), where there was a settlement of about 300 people who had been exiled from Ecuador, mainly owing to involvement in political insurrection. Darwin and some of his Beagle crewmembers climbed the tallest peak (Cerro Pajas) on 27 September 1835, from which they had an excellent view of the entire island. This photograph shows the view from the summit looking toward the south, where the main settlement was located in 1835. In his Journal of Researches Darwin wrote about his visit to this island: "We staid at this island four days, during which time I collected many plants and birds. One morning I ascended the highest hill, which has an altitude of nearly 1800 feet. The summit consists of a broken-down crater, thickly clothed with coarse grass and brushwood. Even in this one island, I counted thirty-nine hills, each of which was terminated by a more or less perfect circular depression" (1839:457).
After visiting the island of San Cristóbal (Chatham), the Beagle sailed to Floreana (Charles Island), where there was a settlement of about 300 people who had been exiled from Ecuador, mainly owing to involvement in political insurrection. Darwin and some of his Beagle crewmembers climbed the tallest peak (Cerro Pajas) on 27 September 1835, from which they had an excellent view of the entire island. This photograph shows the view from the summit looking toward the south, where the main settlement was located in 1835. In his Journal of Researches Darwin wrote about his visit to this island: "We staid at this island four days, during which time I collected many plants and birds. One morning I ascended the highest hill, which has an altitude of nearly 1800 feet. The summit consists of a broken-down crater, thickly clothed with coarse grass and brushwood. Even in this one island, I counted thirty-nine hills, each of which was terminated by a more or less perfect circular depression" (1839:457).
From Floreana, the Beagle sailed to the northwestern side of Isabela (Albemarle Island), anchoring in Tagus Cove, which can be seen here from the eastern rim of a crater lake (now known as Lake Darwin) that adjoins Tagus Cove.
From Floreana, the Beagle sailed to the northwestern side of Isabela (Albemarle Island), anchoring in Tagus Cove, which can be seen here from the eastern rim of a crater lake (now known as Lake Darwin) that adjoins Tagus Cove.
Another view of Tagus Cove and Lake Darwin from the ridge Darwin crossed to get to Beagle crater. On the horizon to the left is Fernandina, the most active volcano in the archipelago. Also visible on the horizon, to the right, is Volcan Ecuador, the northern-most of the six volcanoes that make up the island of Isabela.
Another view of Tagus Cove and Lake Darwin from the ridge Darwin crossed to get to Beagle crater. On the horizon to the left is Fernandina, the most active volcano in the archipelago. Also visible on the horizon, to the right, is Volcan Ecuador, the northern-most of the six volcanoes that make up the island of Isabela.
After going ashore at Tagus Cove, Darwin proceeded to examine nearby "Beagle" crater just to the south. This photograph shows Beagle crater from its southern side. Darwin described this crater as being "elliptic in form; the longer axis being less than a mile, and its depth about 500 feet. The bottom was occupied by a shallow lake, and in its centre a tiny crater formed an islet. The day was overpoweringly hot, and the lake looked clear and blue. I hurried down the cindery slope, and choked with dust eagerly tasted the water—but to my sorrow I found it salt as brine" (Journal of Researches, 1839:458). On the right side of this photograph one can see the western slopes of Volcan Darwin.
After going ashore at Tagus Cove, Darwin proceeded to examine nearby "Beagle" crater just to the south. This photograph shows Beagle crater from its southern side. Darwin described this crater as being "elliptic in form; the longer axis being less than a mile, and its depth about 500 feet. The bottom was occupied by a shallow lake, and in its centre a tiny crater formed an islet. The day was overpoweringly hot, and the lake looked clear and blue. I hurried down the cindery slope, and choked with dust eagerly tasted the water—but to my sorrow I found it salt as brine" (Journal of Researches, 1839:458). On the right side of this photograph one can see the western slopes of Volcan Darwin.
Lying on the ground along the rim of Lake Darwin at Tagus Cove, as well as at nearby Beagle crater, are what Darwin described as "pisolitic balls" (1844, p. 106); see also Estes et al., 2000). They are now called accretionary lapilli and are formed when a submarine eruption emits ash. When falling back to earth, the ash sticks together, forming the bullet-sized particles that Darwin observed. Seen holding some of these lapilli in this photo, is Bill Schopf, who is known for his discoveries of some of the earliest forms of life on Earth, which lived more than 3 billion years ago.
Lying on the ground along the rim of Lake Darwin at Tagus Cove, as well as at nearby Beagle crater, are what Darwin described as "pisolitic balls" (1844, p. 106); see also Estes et al., 2000). They are now called accretionary lapilli and are formed when a submarine eruption emits ash. When falling back to earth, the ash sticks together, forming the bullet-sized particles that Darwin observed. Seen holding some of these lapilli in this photo, is Bill Schopf, who is known for his discoveries of some of the earliest forms of life on Earth, which lived more than 3 billion years ago.
The view from near Darwin's campsite at Buccaneer Cove (on Santiago, or James Island), an old landing site of pirates and whalers. In the foreground is a lava lizard (Microlophus jacobi), of which there are seven distinct species in the Galápagos, six of which are confined to single islands. In the distance is Cerro Cowan, an 850-foot tuff cone that Darwin examined as part of his research on the subaqueous origins of these unusual volcanic formations.
The view from near Darwin's campsite at Buccaneer Cove (on Santiago, or James Island), an old landing site of pirates and whalers. In the foreground is a lava lizard (Microlophus jacobi), of which there are seven distinct species in the Galápagos, six of which are confined to single islands. In the distance is Cerro Cowan, an 850-foot tuff cone that Darwin examined as part of his research on the subaqueous origins of these unusual volcanic formations.
Accompanied by a group of settlers from Floreana who had been sent to Santiago by the vice-governor to fish and hunt tortoises. Darwin visited this salina at the bottom of a tuff crater located on the southern side of James Bay. Located five miles south of Darwin's campsite at Buccaneer Cove, this salina was a good source of salt and was being used by the settlers for preserving fish and tortoise meat. Later in the mid-twentieth century, an Ecuadorian company mined the salt commercially. The road built by this company to descend to the bottom of the crater can be seen winding down the crater's far side. About his own visit to this salina in October 1835, Darwin wrote: "After landing, we had a very rough walk over a rugged field of recent lava, which has almost surrounded a sandstone crater, at the bottom of which the salt-lake is located. . . . A few years since, the sailors belonging to a sealing-vessel murdered their captain in this quiet spot; and we saw his skull lying among the bushes" (Journal of Researches, 1839:459 ).
Accompanied by a group of settlers from Floreana who had been sent to Santiago by the vice-governor to fish and hunt tortoises. Darwin visited this salina at the bottom of a tuff crater located on the southern side of James Bay. Located five miles south of Darwin's campsite at Buccaneer Cove, this salina was a good source of salt and was being used by the settlers for preserving fish and tortoise meat. Later in the mid-twentieth century, an Ecuadorian company mined the salt commercially. The road built by this company to descend to the bottom of the crater can be seen winding down the crater's far side. About his own visit to this salina in October 1835, Darwin wrote: "After landing, we had a very rough walk over a rugged field of recent lava, which has almost surrounded a sandstone crater, at the bottom of which the salt-lake is located. . . . A few years since, the sailors belonging to a sealing-vessel murdered their captain in this quiet spot; and we saw his skull lying among the bushes" (Journal of Researches, 1839:459 ).
The author hiking to the summit of Santiago, which is just a hundred meters or so higher up. Darwin took this same route to the summit in 1835, and along the way he investigated the "nearly perfect crater" seen here in the background. In Darwin's day, this part of the island was heavily vegetated, but it subsequently was almost completely denuded by feral goats. Goats were finally eliminated from the island in 2004, the year when this photograph was taken. Since then, much of the native vegetation has recovered.
The author hiking to the summit of Santiago, which is just a hundred meters or so higher up. Darwin took this same route to the summit in 1835, and along the way he investigated the "nearly perfect crater" seen here in the background. In Darwin's day, this part of the island was heavily vegetated, but it subsequently was almost completely denuded by feral goats. Goats were finally eliminated from the island in 2004, the year when this photograph was taken. Since then, much of the native vegetation has recovered.